Gone is the wall of regional sports plaques in this article to remain is the stocked salad bar (with sneeze guards). Roca’s, the newest salvation of a extended-standing Lakewood pizza parlor, opened Thursday for its neighborhood enthusiasts and other returning customers.
Earlier this yr, Denver restaurateur Alex Seidel (Fruition, Mercantile, Chook, Fudmill) and chef Tim Bender (Comal, Osage Cafe) took above the space that had been occupied for much more than 3 decades by Frontroom Pizza. They brought significant plans to update the kitchen area and eating home and overhaul the food items menu.
Now Roca’s is formally open up for company, serving slender-crust, tavern-model and thick-crust Sicilian-design pies as very well as home-made noodles in classic preparations — strozzapreti alla diavola, spaghetti alla vonghole, for instance. The location is cozy and charming, with paper over checkered tablecloths and adequate brass and subway tile to really feel present day.
Go for your preferred comforting pasta dishes, as perfectly as for the reasonably priced bottles of wine, and keep for dessert, particularly thick slices of tiramisu. And go ahead and sidle up to that salad bar, a shock late-pandemic comeback, and an crucial spared relic from Frontroom. (Seidel’s spouse, Melissa, stated it also reminded her of childhood birthday parties at Pizza Hut.)
And go away it to the Lakewood pizza purists to assess Roca’s sourdough starter crusts to Frontroom’s. Seidel is getting some of the concepts — scratch cooking, new components — from his James Beard-awarded cooking and making use of them in this article. But he’s also earning positive family members can take in for all around $50, with little kinds purchasing chicken tenders or “super cheesy” pizzas.
It is the chef’s individual community joint, following all, in which his young children and others’ will be coming in right after university, following follow, just after tournaments. Heck, give it another 35 several years and there may well even be plaques on the partitions again.
If you go: Roca’s Pizza & Pasta is open from 4 to 9 p.m. Sunday by Thursday and 4-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday at 13795 W. Jewell Ave. in Lakewood. For extra information, phone 303-969-8880 or head to rocaspizzaandpasta.com.
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